Grasses are useful in your home as well as your outdoor landscaping. They are low maintenance and their foliage contrasts well with tropicals, annuals and perennials. Heights of these magnificent plants can range from 10 inches to 10 feet. Most grasses are very hardy and provide a year around display. Grasses prefer well drained soil and do best if they are mulched before the colder winter months. A little extra mulch will insure vigorous growth in the spring. Taller grasses should be cut back to 4-6 inches early in the spring to promote new growth and a fresh appearance.
This weeks featured project is a waterfall that was built by Knapp Valley Gardens a few years back for Bill & Donna Hoffhines. It offers them a beautiful view from their back deck and a sanctuary for visiting wildlife.
The homeowners were very pleased with the results and commented “We love the yard and so do the birds!!!! We will always live here to enjoy the view.”
Kimberly Blanchard
KV Landscape Designer
It’s that time of the year to start cutting flowers you would like to bring into the house for the winter. There are different stages as to when you should cut and dry flowers, some have already passed but plenty are still ready to harvest and to bring in for the memory of summer all season. Hydrangea, sunflowers, grasses and cattails are just a few of the flowers that you can dry successfully. You can also cut many different kinds of woody ornamentals for dried arrangements such as corkscrew willow, redtwig dogwood and grapevines. Anything that has good color, texture or structure will give your arrangements character. I really enjoy creating my fall and winter arrangements, it is great fun coming up with my own unique designs.
There are many methods to drying flowers. I prefer the simplest way! I have found my flowers only look good for one season and then need to be tossed. Every year I have an abundance of new flowers, so why not start fresh every year.
Kim’s Simple and Easy Way to Dry Flowers:
- Cut flowers of choice out of the garden (Hydrangea, ornamental grass, Baby’s Breath, the list is endless).
- Discard any damaged or diseased foliage or stems.
- Place flowers in bundles of 5-7 stems.
- Tie up with twine or rubber bands and hang upside down in a well ventilated room away from direct sunlight.
- It usually takes a week or two to complete the drying process.
- I spray my dried flowers with non-fragrant hair spray to help hold them together.
- I also use nontoxic spray paint on flowers that are spent or just to add some color. Red, Gold or Silver is nice for Christmas arrangements.
We would love to share with you the art of dried flower arranging.
Hope to see you soon!
If simply staying indoors isn’t an option, use these precautions and repellents to keep away the heavy swarms of mosquitoes lurking in your yard.
Published August 12, 2011
Michael G. Kaufman, Michigan State University Extension, Department of Entomology
The excessive heat may be temporarily gone from what I consider to have been a horrible summer, but other unpleasantness remains in the form of large populations of mosquitoes. It’s been a “good” year for many species because they thrive in hot weather and in habitats created by sporadic, heavy rainfall. Lots of rain in May led to large June populations. Those June populations laid eggs that made it through the July drought and hatched with heavy rains toward the end of the month. This resulted in more broods of summer floodwater mosquitoes (e.g., Aedes vexans and A. trivittatus).
One of the indicators of summer floodwater populations is the appearance of a very large species (largest in Michigan) commonly called “gallinippers.” This is Psorophora ciliata and it can be alarming when it lands on your arm to attempt to feed. Adult females can be over half an inch long in body length and they have very hairy legs with yellowish bands. They are never very abundant, but you won’t forget them if one tries to bite you. On the positive side, their larvae feed upon other mosquito larvae, so they have a beneficial aspect.
If warm conditions persist and heavy rainstorms occur every few weeks, large numbers of mosquitoes could be with us well into September. (Not to alarm anyone, but some areas in Michigan have seen substantial emergences of these mosquitoes in October!) The question is, what can you do about it?
Unfortunately, when mosquitoes have reached the adult stage in large numbers, options are few. There are many marginally effective backyard spraying and fogging treatments (available at local hardware and home stores) that typically use a synthetic pyrethroid (e.g., permethrin) as the active ingredient. Some can be sprayed at yard borders and have residual (several weeks) effect. Obviously, you will want to strictly adhere to application instructions and restrictions. Pyrethroids have low mammal and bird toxicity, but overspray into ponds, for example, might harm fish. Note also that these compounds are not mosquito specific, so most other insects will be affected.
A commercial option that should be avoided is the timer-based automatic sprayers. These units, called “Mosquito Misters,” are analogous to automatic sprinkler systems and simply spray or mist insecticide from a reservoir at the determined time intervals from a series of nozzles placed in and around the property. This system is costly, inefficient and violates the sound principles of integrated pest management. If mosquito problems on your property are severe enough for you to consider such a system, I suggest that you contact a mosquito control company instead. Consider hiring a service as part of a neighborhood group – mosquitoes can and will move around frequently from yard to yard. Some of the floodwater species are known to travel miles in search of hosts.
Other potential alternatives for adult control include garlic-based oils applied as sprays. I’ve had no experience with these products and, to my knowledge, there has been little peer-reviewed reporting on their efficacy. The idea that consuming garlic makes one less attractive to mosquitoes is a myth, and there is little evidence to indicate it is useful as a repellent (for mosquitoes, not irritating people). If someone tries a garlic product, please let me know how it works, but I remain skeptical.
If you’re like me and prefer not to deal with broad-spectrum adulticides or unproven products, then your options lie in avoidance (stay inside!) and the judicial use of repellents. Spending the evening on your deck or patio can also be made more tolerable with some well-placed fans. There is an increasing variety of mosquito repellants available that can be applied to exposed skin and many common fabrics; cotton and nylon are OK, but certain synthetics such as rayon may not hold up to higher concentrations of DEET. DEET-based products remain the standard for effectiveness and safety, but relatively new products with picaridin (supposed to be less irritating than DEET, sold as Cutter Advanced), IR3535 (in some Avon products) or lemon-eucalyptus oil derivatives (a Repel product) are quite effective. There are several new DEET products such as the OFF dry spray line that, in my experience, are very effective and don’t have the irritating oily feel of other formulations.
Additional products based on botanical derivatives (e.g., Bite Blocker with soybean oil) can be effective for short periods of time, but if you want something to last for more than two hours after application and to work for ticks as well as mosquitoes, use one of the products mentioned above. There are also several lines of clothing impregnated with permethrin (e.g., Buzz Off) that keep mosquitoes from landing on materials. You can also apply this to several types of fabrics yourself and it’s supposed to last through several washings. Note that this is the same principle used in bednets to fight malaria in Africa, but also note that the clothing doesn’t provide a whole body shield. Mosquitoes will readily land and bite on exposed skin adjacent to the material.
I cannot recommend OFF clip-ons, which use a pyrethroid type of insecticide (metofluthrin) dispersed with a small fan as a repellant. I recently tried using one of these units, but it was almost totally ineffective against the swarms of A. trivittatus that attacked my dog and me when we walked near the edges of the lawn or along country roads. It did appear to inhibit landing and biting attempts on parts of my torso when I used it while sitting on the patio, but it did not eliminate repeated mosquito attacks to my head, face and lower legs. I doubt most people will want to wear three to five of these units for full “coverage” and I suspect no one will want to wear one as a necklace to keep A. trivittatus away from the head and neck – the packaging label warns against inhalation of the vapors (something that’s probably hard to avoid, in my estimation).
Unfortunately, there are no great options for barrier repellants yet. Landscaping plants and citronella candles have not been shown to be more effective than smoke-producing candles in keeping mosquitoes at bay. However, research of area-wide repellants is a hot area, so expect to see more products of this type in the next few years.
I’d love to be able to recommend attracting bats as a means to reduce mosquito populations, but the idea that they are mosquito-eating machines is simply a myth. Of course they can and do eat mosquitoes, but they almost certainly could not survive by doing so. The myth arose from a study that reported bats would need to eat several thousand mosquitoes (or mosquito-sized insects) a night to meet energy demands, and from counts of mosquitoes eaten by bats in cages where they were the only prey item. Any accounts of bats controlling mosquito populations are anecdotal, as are those indicating birds such as purple martins are effective. I have lots of bats and insectivorous birds on my property and the mosquitoes are clearly uncontrolled. You should also be aware that bats are known to carry rabies, so it’s hard to recommend increasing their populations near human dwellings.
Likewise, it would be nice to be able to recommend propane-powered devices such as Mosquito Magnets that attract and kill mosquitoes via carbon dioxide (sometimes with an octanol supplement) plumes and a fan. However, there is no evidence that they reduce biting rates in a realistic setting and in fact may be drawing in mosquitoes from other areas. The running joke is that if you want these traps to work for your yard, buy one for your neighbor. They are also not equally effective in trapping all species – we know this from our own mosquito traps that are based on the same attractants. The only study showing substantial reduction in biting rates after use of these devices took place on a very small island with a well-defined mosquito population.
The standard dogma about eliminating breeding sites on your property – eliminating or frequently changing any standing water such as that in birdbaths – still holds true, but it will have little effect on the crops of floodwater mosquitoes that have been the bane of this summer thus far. As mentioned, most of the mosquitoes biting you during the day while you’re trying to weed your garden, or in the evening when you’re relaxing on the patio, have developed elsewhere and have potentially flown into your backyard – unless you live along a floodplain – from miles away. This is not to say that your efforts to eliminate breeding sites are useless. The artificial containers around your home can be excellent larval habitats for many of the species that transmit human diseases.
The large populations of nuisance mosquitoes seen this summer do not necessarily portend an increase in risk of mosquito-borne disease. Some floodwater species appear to be competent vectors of West Nile virus (WNV), for example, but it’s thought their role is minor. They have, however, been implicated in transmission of dog heartworm, so make sure your pets are current with their medications.
The primary vectors of West Nile, species of Culex mosquitoes, do not appear to be in unusual abundance this year and our testing of mosquito pools for WNV and other mosquito-borne viruses have not yielded a single positive from Michigan samples. It may simply be that the disease is slower to emerge this year because of climate conditions or bird population factors. The same conditions (heavy rains) that encourage high populations of floodwater mosquitoes may be washing out some larval habitats (e.g., storm water catchbasins) of the Culex species. However, be aware that late summer is usually when Culex populations peak, and they also appear to be more likely to feed on humans during this period. Although the risk may be relatively low this year, I’d still urge precautions and the use of repellants, particularly during the evening and nighttime hours.
The record-breaking heat has taken a toll on many turf areas, causing crabgrass and weeds. Here are some tips in helping your turf recover and prepare for fall.
Published August 12, 2011
Kevin Frank, Michigan State University Extension, Department of Crop and Soil Sciences
The cooler temperatures the last week have certainly been welcome relief from the record heat and humidity of July. Many turf areas across the state including home lawns, golf courses, athletic fields and commercial properties have turf that is looking less than stellar following the heat of the last month.
Earlier this year, many thought that with very cool temperatures of spring and early summer that it might be a down year for crabgrass. Well, not surprisingly, once the heat surged in July the crabgrass let it be known that it would not be denied another bountiful summer of growth and prosperity. In addition to crabgrass, the voids in turf have resulted in numerous other weeds finding homes including black medic, oxalis, dandelion, white clover, birdsfoot trefoil, yellow nutsedge, chicory and Canada thistle. In addition, I’ve also been noticing that my new white sneakers have been sporting a nice, brownish-orange look after walking through areas where rust is starting to infest the turf.
The 10-day forecast looks like temperatures are going to stay moderate with highs in the 70s and low 80s and, more importantly, nighttime temperatures in the 60s. These temperatures will spur turfgrass growth and recovery from the summer stress.
A couple tips to help your turf recover and compete with weeds for what’s left of summer as we move into fall.
- If your lawn is looking weak, now would be the time to consider a fertilizer application to ensure the turf has the nutrition it needs to recover and grow into the fall.
- Sharpen the mower blades. It’s been a long season of mowing, so sharpen the blades now before entering the fall mowing season. A sharp blade results in a cleaner cut that helps the turf heal quicker than a ragged cut.
- If the turf has been infested with crabgrass, a herbicide application to check it may be worth your while as this will allow the turf to compete better as we move into fall.
- For broadleaf weed problems, the most effective herbicide applications will be applied in late September or early October.
The garden center is filled with beautiful plants right now! Check out some of our favorites right now…
'Blue River II' Hibiscus
'Banana Cream' Shasta Daisy
'Firewitch' Carnation
Double Pink Knockout Rose
'Potter's Purple' Butterfly Bush
'Little Lime' Hydrangea
'Mardi Gras' Sneeze Weed
Candy Lily
Building a butterfly garden can be a fun and rewarding experience. By following these easy steps you can feel proud that you have made a delightful habitat for our fluttery friends, which can help conserve certain species of butterflies and prevent them from becoming extinct. A butterfly garden can be simple or complex depending on how involved you would like to be. A simple garden can just consist of selecting a handful of nectar plants to attract several species of adult butterflies to an area of your yard or if you want to play host and maintain a habitual butterfly garden it then comes down to location, plant choice, water availability, and predators in the area.
To get started, we first have to look at the natural areas in which butterflies live. They are cold blooded and need warmth, which they get primarily, from the sun so open locations are always a must. Butterflies like areas to perch in direct sunlight on cooler days. A tall flower like Joe-Pye, a rock, a low tree branch, or a shrub will work well. They like protection provided by shrubs, trees, or structures from strong winds. Also, having a small tree or large shrub in the area gives them a place to rest away from predators. So, the best location for the garden is in an open area with some protection by trees/large shrubs, little traffic, located in full sun, and out of strong winds.
Moist woods, along river banks, bio-swales, and ditches are where butterflies would like to be since water is a must. If you do not have water in or near your yard you can incorporate it. Butterflies will be attracted to something as simple as a bird bath or a pan of water. More preferred is moist open soil or sand like that found in a bog or river edge. Creating a bog garden, filling a pan or small tub with sand and water, or placing pebbles in your bird bath will develop a good water base for your butterfly garden.
The next step is plant selection. There are two distinct selections of plants for the two stages in the butterflies’ development. The first are ‘Host Plants’ for the feeding in the larvae stage. The larva, called caterpillars, will need plants to feed on weather it be a specific plant or on various plants. Host plants are almost always frowned upon in the garden because of the nature of the larvae to chew, bore holes, or decimate the plant they feed on making them unsightly. But, the host plants can be easily mixed in and near other plants to help hide them.
The second are the ‘Nectar Plants’ which supply the food source for the adult butterflies. Nectar is the sugar secretion usually found in the inner corolla of a flower. Most butterflies are attracted to plants in the composite family, due to the fact that they produce sweeter nectar; like Daisies, Sunflowers, Chicory, Feverfew, Blanket flower, and Black-eyed Susans. Other good nectar plants are Butterfly weed, Butterfly bush, Salvias, Veronicas, Spireas, Roses, Joe Pye weed, Liatris, Lupine, and Viburnum. To decide which plants to plant you should find out what kind of butterflies exist in your area, then find out what their preferred host and nectar plants are.
Be warned some of the plants (especially some of the host plants) such as: nettles, swamp milkweed, hog-peanut, dock, spreading asters, and spreading species of golden rod you may not want in your yard. Such plants can be annoying, invasive, and hard to control. More than likely these plants are somewhere in your surrounding area or can be planted in a nearby wooded area to attract butterflies. A lot of larvae feed on large trees like hickories, walnuts, birches, and poplars which are likely to be in your area and are not necessarily needed in your garden area.
Predators are the next concern. Birds such as: blue birds, cardinals, martins, owls, and more are the largest consumers of butterflies. So it is not advisable to put your garden near a bird houses unless you are attracting the butterflies to attract certain birds in your area. Also, cats can be a nuisance to butterflies so make sure they have a way escape.
Last but not least, take time to sit back and admire your work and enjoy all of the new visitors to your yard!
This week’s features landscape project is a Bubbling Rock Fountain at the Loeks’ Summer Residence on Lake Michigan.
The Garden was created out of a little used area, originally consisting of stone walls with a trickling stream, located in a wooded area of high canopy shade trees. The goal was to create an inviting sitting area with a fountain as the featured accent. A natural stone fountain was chosen over a more finished look to better blend with the natural setting. The challenge of this project was to combine older existing elements with new materials in a way that appeared as though it were all built at the same time.
Before
The garden was designed in a circular pattern surrounding the fountain. Reclaimed street pavers were laid in a herringbone pattern to form the sitting area. The fountain was built out of natural bluestone stacked horizontally for a layered effect. After the stone was set, a hole was drilled through the center for the water to reach the top. The water flow off the top of the stone creates a varied stream, different on each side of the fountain, ending with a soft splash into the pool below. Three curved wooden benches finish the sitting area.
After
John Loeks was extremely pleased with the hard work and creative effort of the Knapp Valley crew and said that we definitely met his expectations for the new fountain area.
GOD:
Frank, you know all about gardens and nature. What in the world is going on down there on the planet? What happened to the dandelions, violets, milkweeds and stuff I started eons ago? I had a perfect no-maintenance garden plan. Those plants grow in any type of soil, withstand drought and multiply with abandon. The nectar from the long-lasting blossoms attracts butterflies, honey bees and flocks of songbirds. I expected to see a vast garden of colours by now. But, all I see are these green rectangles.
ST. FRANCIS:
It’s the tribes that settled there, Lord. The Suburbanites. They started calling your flowers ‘weeds’ and went to great lengths to kill them and replace them with grass.
GOD:
Grass? But, it’s so boring. It’s not colourful. It doesn’t attract butterflies, birds and bees; only grubs and sod worms. It’s sensitive to temperatures. Do these Suburbanites really want all that grass growing there?
ST. FRANCIS:
Apparently so, Lord. They go to great pains to grow it and keep it green. They begin each spring by fertilizing grass and poisoning any other plant that crops up in the lawn.
GOD:
The spring rains and warm weather probably make grass grow really fast. That must make the Suburbanites happy.
ST. FRANCIS:
Apparently not, Lord. As soon as it grows a little, they cut it-sometimes twice a week.
GOD:
They cut it? Do they then bale it like hay?
ST. FRANCIS:
Not exactly, Lord. Most of them rake it up and put it in bags.
GOD:
They bag it? Why? Is it a cash crop? Do they sell it?
ST. FRANCIS:
No, Sir, just the opposite. They pay to throw it away.
GOD:
Now, let me get this straight. They fertilize grass so it will grow. And, when it does grow, they cut it off and pay to throw it away?
ST. FRANCIS:
Yes, Sir.
GOD:
These Suburbanites must be relieved in the summer when we cut back on the rain and turn up the heat. That surely slows the growth and saves them a lot of work.
ST. FRANCIS:
You aren’t going to believe this, Lord. When the grass stops growing so fast, they drag out hoses and pay more money to water it, so they can continue to mow it and pay to get rid of it.
GOD:
What nonsense. At least they kept some of the trees. That was a sheer stroke of genius, if I do say so myself. The trees grow leaves in the spring to provide beauty and shade in the summer. In the autumn, they fall to the ground and form a natural blanket to keep moisture in the soil and protect the trees and bushes. It’s a natural cycle of life.
ST. FRANCIS:
You better sit down, Lord. The Suburbanites have drawn a new circle. As soon as the leaves fall, they rake them into great piles and pay to have them hauled away.
GOD:
No!? What do they do to protect the shrub and tree roots in the winter to keep the soil moist and loose?
ST. FRANCIS:
After throwing away the leaves, they go out and buy something which they call mulch. They haul it home and spread it around in place of the leaves.
GOD:
And where do they get this mulch?
ST. FRANCIS:
They cut down trees and grind them up to make the mulch.
GOD:
Enough! I don’t want to think about this anymore. St. Catherine, you’re in charge of the arts. What movie have you scheduled for us tonight?
ST. CATHERINE:
‘Dumb and Dumber’, Lord. It’s a story about….
GOD:
Never mind, I think I just heard the whole story from St. Francis.